Stabilizer for LED running lights. All connection diagrams for daytime running lights. How to fix DRL defects

20.11.2020

Many car enthusiasts have already heard about the benefits of DRLs and are starting to look for a decent model in stores. The assortment is widely represented by Chinese junk costing from 300 to 5000 rubles. Some don’t even understand why they should be installed on a car and buy junk for 500 rubles, which shines a little brighter than its dimensions, with a power of 2 watts. You've probably seen these, they still glow blue, and some of the LEDs don't light up or blink. Then they have the problem of how to wire up the running lights to make them last longer. Garage craftsmen offer various DRL connection schemes, the most difficult thing is to choose the right one.

Common names that will be used in the text: DRL "Daytime Running Lights", daytime running lights.

1. Types of connection
2. Operating mode
3. How to connect DRL with control unit
4. DRL controller
5. Select a stabilizer
6. Connection via relay
7. Other less popular methods
8. Installation check
9. Example of benefit

Types of connection

DRL Eagle eye, eagle eye

The connection diagram for running lights depends on the configuration and your budget. There are 3 types of configuration:

the most inexpensive, only DRL;
average in price, stabilizer included;
expensive, with a control controller.

If you have the cheapest and worst ones, then the kit does not include a controller or control unit. Such a unit performs the function of a voltage stabilizer and on/off control.

The average configuration includes a 12V voltage stabilizer. There are voltage surges in the car network, and LEDs really don’t like this and fail. The stabilizer will significantly extend the life of the LEDs. But in this option, you will have to choose a place for connection so that they turn on only when the engine is running. There are many places for this, for example an oil pressure sensor or a generator.

Domestic model

The expensive version is equipped with a control unit that connects directly to battery in the car. According to the principle of operation, they are of two types:

determine the difference between the number of volts when the engine is off and on;
cheaper, it turns on when the voltage rises above 13V.

The best option is the first one, regardless of the voltage on your battery, always turn it on and off correctly. The second option is budgetary and does not always work. With the engine off, the number of volts must drop below 13V for the controller to turn off the DRL. However, if your battery is new or well charged, then even after stopping the engine, it will have a voltage above 13V for up to several hours. That is, the daytime running lights will not turn off on their own until there is less than 13V. The only drawback will be its own power consumption when the controller is waiting for the engine to start. It will discharge the battery along with burglar alarm.

Operating mode

According to technical regulations for cars, DRL should automatically turn on when the engine starts. When you turn on the low beams, they should turn off automatically so as not to dazzle at night.

There are also combined models with installed turn signals on sale. The turn signal duplication section is connected separately in parallel to the standard turn signals. Having a stable diet is also a must.

DRL with turn signal

For models with additional control There is a follow-up backlight function that works for 10 minutes after the engine is turned off. It illuminates your path to your home or dugout, depending on where you live. Osram DRL has a mode in which they do not turn off, but dim by 50%. I just don’t know how legal it is and whether it will cause blindness.

How to connect DRL with control unit

DRL controller

I prefer the DRL connection diagram using a control unit, the most reliable method, suitable for any car and does not require any knowledge. Many car enthusiasts buy a DRL control unit from AliExpress - it is inexpensive, and the reviews seem to be good. However, most reviews are left either upon receipt of the product or after several days of use. In fact, absolutely all DRL controllers from AliExpress are short-lived and have the following disadvantages:

the operating principle does not comply with GOST;
there is no stabilization (for the majority);
low quality of materials and workmanship;
the features of the vehicle’s on-board network are not taken into account;
no guarantee;
some do not have moisture protection.

Among the quality options, I can highlight the DayLight+ DRL control unit from Russian manufacturer, which fully complies with GOST and differs good quality. The DayLight+ controller also has built-in stabilization, which will significantly increase the life of the running lights.

Choosing a stabilizer

In this form, the first and second methods will be combined. Even if your daytime running lights do not have a stabilizer, I recommend purchasing one or making it yourself.

You can buy Chinese modules at prices ranging from 50 to 120 rubles, so as not to order on Aliexpress, take a look at Avito, you can find very reasonable prices. The most common modules are pulse LM2596 and linear LM317. They are of course outdated, but they will draw a current of 1 ampere, which will be a power of 12 watts.

The XL6009, XL4015 chips are considered modern for 2016. They have higher efficiency and heat up much less. They can withstand a current of 2 Amps without a chip cooling system, this is equivalent to a load of 24 watts.

Connection via relay

On forums and websites you will find different ways How to connect daytime running lights with your own hands, it will be different for each brand. Specialized relays are also sold, for example Forget-me-not, designed for any car.

The operating principle is simple. Power to the daytime running lights is supplied from the ignition switch wire. The positive wire from the far and near breaks the circuit when voltage appears on it. A 5-pin relay is sufficient for this. First, look for a solution on forums that specialize only in the make of your car. Perhaps you will find a simpler solution.

For example, in Duster you can connect the DRL to the cigarette lighter; voltage is supplied to it only when the ignition is turned on. This is better than looking for the ignition wire in the wiring. In any case, I recommend installing a fuse in case of a short circuit.

Many circuits use a gauge wire to disable the DRL. This is incorrect DRL should not go out when the headlights are turned on, only when low beam is on.

Another type of connection diagram for daytime running lights is the installation of a relay in the standard relay block of a car without any upgrades. It includes 30% or 50% distant, which will be enough to identify vehicles on the road. If the far one consumes 120W, then 30% equals approximately 36W, 50% equals 60W.

Other less popular methods

Many people are interested in how to connect DRLs without a relay on their own, but it depends on the electrical system of your car; look for a solution in online clubs dedicated to your car. The most important thing is that power is supplied to this place after the engine starts.

The basic diagram for connecting the DRLs is through a 4 or 5 contact relay, which turns off when the low one is turned on. Those who are not too lazy to rummage through the car’s wiring can connect it from the oil pressure sensor or generator. On any vehicle, when you start the engine, the oil pressure light on dashboard, the signal from this wire is used to supply power. The second way to connect running lights yourself is to connect to a generator. They will turn on automatically when voltage appears on the generator.

Verifying the installation

Most car owners, after connecting the running lights with their own hands, like to take a photo of their junk. To make it less dim, they do this at night from close range. Due to their illiteracy, they do not know that they need to check in sunny weather from a distance of 100 meters. That's why they are called daytime and not nighttime.

Example of benefit

When traveling short distances in winter, especially in severe frost, a large number of Battery energy is wasted to start the engine. Over time, the battery loses its capacity and holds its charge worse. Using DRLs instead of low beams will allow you to charge the battery faster while driving.

Let's do the math:

low beam consumes about 100W, 2 lamps approximately 50W each;
decent DRLs up to 15W;
100W – 15W = 85W less energy will be consumed.

For example, in my Duster there is a standard heating element that heats the interior until the engine warms up. Accordingly, the car will warm up faster.

On the territory of the Russian Federation, amendments to the traffic rules (traffic rules) have been in force for more than 8 years, according to which moving vehicle during daylight hours it should be indicated by low beam headlights, fog lights (PTF) or daytime running lights (DRL). Using headlights and fog lights for these purposes has a number of disadvantages. Therefore, drivers prefer to buy ready-made running light modules and install them in their cars themselves. How to properly connect daytime running lights so that their operation is safe and does not contradict current laws?

The nuances of turning on running lights

Basic instructions regarding installation technical parameters and connections for running lights are listed in paragraph 6.19 of GOST R 41.48-2004. In particular, the electrical functional circuit of the DRL must be assembled in such a way that the running lights turn on automatically when the ignition key is turned (the engine starts). In this case, they should automatically turn off if the headlights are turned on.

Clause 5.12 of this standard states that headlights (FGS) should be turned on only after the lights are turned on, with the exception of short-term warning signals. When connecting DRLs yourself, this feature must be taken into account.

Correct connection of DRLs is not limited to a well-thought-out functional diagram. It's time to think about the stabilization unit for LEDs. In the running lights themselves, resistors act as a current limiter; however, due to voltage drops, resistors cannot limit the current to the same level. That is why a voltage stabilizer in the running lights connection circuit is extremely necessary. Otherwise, the service life of LED DRL modules is significantly reduced due to constant changes onboard voltage. Some car enthusiasts claim that it is possible to connect running lights without a stabilizer.

Connecting and installing an LED driver is a waste of time, because the DRLs on LEDs shine regularly for months without any stabilization...

However, this statement is easy to dispute. The fact is that with each voltage surge, more than 12 V appears on the LED module, the forward current through the LEDs exceeds the nominal value, which leads to overheating of the emitting crystal. The brightness of the LEDs decreases, such DRLs will no longer be able to fulfill their immediate task - to warn oncoming drivers from afar, and over time they will begin to flicker and fail.

Using LED DRLs without a voltage stabilizer means spending at least several hundred rubles every year on new modules and wasting time replacing them.

For ease of understanding, the circuits below are shown without using a stabilizer.

The simplest scheme

The most simple circuit turning on the DRL when starting the engine is shown in the figure. The positive wire is connected to the “+” terminal of the ignition switch. The negative wire is attached to the machine body in a convenient place. In this form, the scheme has a significant drawback. The LED running lights will emit light as long as the ignition key is turned. In addition, their work is not coordinated with the work of other headlights, and therefore does not meet the requirements of GOST.

Switching on through dimensions or low beam

The second version of the DRL connection diagram involves using the power circuit of the side light bulb. To do this, the positive wire from the running lights is directly connected to the “+” from the battery. In turn, the negative wire is connected to the “+” side light, which is this moment electrically neutral. As a result, the following current flow path is formed: from the “+” of the battery through the LEDs to the size, and then through the light bulb to the body, which serves as the minus of the entire circuit. Due to the low current consumption (tens of mA), the LEDs begin to glow, and the lamp spiral remains extinguished.
If the driver turns on the side lights, then +12 V appears on the positive side lights, the potentials on the DRL wires are equalized and the LEDs go out. The circuit goes into normal mode, that is, current flows through the side light bulbs.

This circuit solution has several disadvantages:

running lights remain on when the engine is turned off, which is contrary to current regulations;
the circuit will not work if LEDs are also installed in the dimensions;
the circuit will not work correctly if the DRLs contain powerful SMD LEDs, the rated current of which is comparable to the current of a light bulb;
For safety reasons, an additional fuse must be installed.

This connection method can be improved by connecting the positive wire of the LED module not to the “+” of the battery, but to the “+” of the ignition switch, thereby eliminating the first drawback.
Some motorists use schemes for turning on running lights through a low beam lamp. That is, when the low beam is turned on, the DRLs automatically go out, but in other cases they work. In addition to the above disadvantages, this method does not comply with GOST R 41.48-2004 and traffic regulations.

When parking a car at night, side lights are used to indicate it; the use of DRLs is prohibited.

Connection via a 4-pin relay from a generator or oil sensor

The following two methods have a common basis and imply the operation of daytime running lights only after the engine is started. The circuit for switching on DRL from the generator is based on switching a four-contact relay and a reed switch.
The DRL relay contacts are connected as follows:

85 – to the positive wire to the dimensions;
86 – to any reed switch output;
87 and the second terminal of the reed switch - to the “+” of the battery.

After checking the reliability of all contacts, proceed to setup. To do this, start the engine and, by moving the reed switch near the generator, achieve its activation and a stable glow of the DRL. Then the reed switch is hidden in a thermal tube and fixed in the found place using nylon ties.

At the moment of starting the engine, and then the generator, the contacts of the reed switch and relay close, supplying power to the LED running lights. In this case, the side lamps remain turned off, since the current through the relay coil is small to light them.

In the absence of a reed switch, you can power the DRL from the oil pressure sensor. In this case, pin 86 is connected to the oil pressure lamp. The rest of the circuitry is duplicated.
Both schemes have a common drawback. They cannot be used if LEDs are installed in the dimensions.

Connection via 5-pin relay

Now it's time to learn how to connect running lights via a five-pin relay. The scheme is the most universal, and was assembled to eliminate the disadvantages of previous options.
First, about connecting the relay for DRLs:

30 – to the positive terminals of LED modules;
85 – to the positive wire of the side lamp;
86 – on the car body;
87a – to “+” from the ignition switch;
87 – do not connect (isolate).

The circuit with a five-contact relay works as follows. When you turn the key, +12 V is supplied to the DRLs, thereby turning them on. If you turn on the side lights or headlights, the relay will open contact 87a and close inactive contact 87. As a result, the DRLs will go out and the side lights will turn on. The circuit fully complies with the requirements of GOST and traffic regulations and can work with side lights even based on LEDs.

However, the circuit still has one negative point - the DRLs will turn on immediately after turning the ignition switch. That is, if you turn the key in the ignition but do not start the car, the DRLs will light up.

Despite the existing drawback, the circuit is quite successful, but in order to correctly connect the DRL via a five-pin relay, you will need to supplement the circuit with a voltage stabilizer.

This switching option is interesting because the path of current flow through the running lights is independent. This allows you to install light sources of any type and power in headlights and DRLs.

DRL control unit

The most reliable and simplest option is to connect DRLs without a relay, but using a special running lights control unit. It ensures that the DRL turns on after starting the engine, guarantees safe operation, protects against overloads and can be installed on cars with any type of lamps, including LEDs.

Unfortunately, among the variety of industrially manufactured DRL units, the vast majority do not comply with GOST and have mediocre build quality.

This applies, first of all, to products from AliExpress, which do not meet the requirements in almost all respects.

Among all the diversity, only 2 options can be noted: the Russian DayLight+ DRL control unit and German products from Philips and Osram. The DayLight+ control unit was developed by Russian radio engineer Fedor Isachenkov, taking into account all the features of the vehicle’s on-board network and has a number of positive aspects:

there is built-in voltage stabilization;
full compliance with GOST;
the maximum long-term load power is 36 Watts (significantly less is required for DRLs);
simplest connection diagram.

In addition to the points described above, the DayLight+ unit is universal and is suitable for all cars with an on-board 12-volt network, and also has good build quality and a high degree of protection from moisture and dust.
German products from Philips and Osram also have all the above-described advantages of the DayLight+ unit, however, German control units are supplied only together with daytime running lights and are more expensive.

LEDs in daytime running lights

LED lamps are highly popular among car enthusiasts due to their low power and low energy consumption. In addition, the optimal operating life of the LED can reach fifty thousand hours under proper conditions. However, in cars, especially domestically produced vehicles, the service life of the diode can be significantly reduced and after just a month it can begin to flicker and then burn out completely.

The optimal voltage for a long lamp life at the highest possible brightness is considered to be 12 V. However, the voltage of the vehicle’s on-board network initially exceeds 12 V, amounting to approximately 12.6 V, and when the engine is running it can reach as much as 14.5 V. Taking into account surges when switching powerful high and low beam lamps, as well as high power voltage pulses and magnetic interference when starting the engine with the starter, the on-board automotive network does not offer the best conditions for powering LED lamps.

LED lamps have high sensitivity to any voltage surges and in the absence of limiting elements (in cheap options they are absent, except for current-reducing resistors), they very quickly fail due to constant overvoltage.

DIY stabilizer

In order not to bother with replacing LEDs every time, spending extra money, you can go the other way - make a current stabilizer for the DRL with your own hands, especially since the task is feasible for almost every motorist.

To assemble such a stabilizer, you will need the following components:

microcircuit - linear voltage stabilizer (this can be L7805 or KR142EN8B);
two capacitors (100 microfarads and 330 microfarads);
blowtorch.

Self-production of a stabilizer for DRLs occurs in several stages:

It is necessary to connect a capacitor with a capacity of 100 microfarads and a stabilizer according to the diagram: minus with the central leg of the stabilizer, plus with the right.
The second capacitor (330 μF) is soldered according to the mirror principle: positive to the central leg of the stabilizer, negative to the left leg.
Then the input plus must be soldered to the diode, and the minus must be soldered to the middle leg of the stabilizer.

So, the stabilizer for daytime running lights is almost ready, all that remains is to take into account some points:

To prevent the stabilizer from heating up, you need to screw any metal plate to it, which will act as a cooling radiator. There is also the option of attaching stabilizers directly to the car body - in this case, it will serve as a radiator;
When running lights consume more than 700 mA, each individual light requires the manufacture of its own stabilizer.

The connection diagram for the stabilizer for the DRL is as simple as the diagram for its manufacture and can be easily found on any website or forum of car enthusiasts.

A similar 12-volt stabilizer, made by yourself, is suitable not only for daytime running lights, but also for some other automotive electronics that require stabilization. You can also buy ready-made LED drivers, but they are often more expensive than the LED lamps themselves.

And other daytime running lights are of good quality. But, as for so-called “no name” goods, the quality leaves much to be desired. Therefore, when working with such daytime lights, they often cause problems and inconveniences, for example, they break down, or problems arise with the operation of the diodes.

The appearance of all Chinese ones is quite stylish. They have durable transparent plastic glass with a special protective film applied, which must be removed before installation. The body of all DRLs is strong and shock-resistant, and the mounting brackets are metal and are universal, allowing you to install the device on any car. There are bolts that allow you to adjust the tilt of the devices. The kit comes with 4 self-tapping screws or screws, with wide and dimensional washers for fixation. This design and mounting is often ideal for cars from the Japanese automobile industry.

What do we see on our roads?

The result of purchasing low-quality ones is visible on our roads. That is, when purchasing nameless Chinese-made DRLs, you can notice how some of the LEDs that make up the module do not light up or flicker, the modules do not light up, or processes such as turning off the DRLs when turning on the headlights and low beams, and so on, do not function. Sometimes, if the assembly is of very poor quality, LEDs can even flash due to current breakdown.

The main malfunctions of low-quality DRLs

Flicker. One or more LEDs blink rapidly, which reduces the quality of the glow and affects the efficiency of the device.	Flashing. Intermediate activation and deactivation of diode light, which also negatively affects the efficiency of daytime running lights.	Combined blink. This is the most unpleasant thing about daytime lights, since individual diodes or an entire row begin to deactivate alternately in one or another row.

What to do, because it is strictly forbidden to use such running lights outside the city and in the city, since they do not meet the safety requirements for movement on the road. In order to change the position, modifications must be made or tuning done on such running lights. By examining different running lights made in China, you can see that the design is almost identical.

The first thing you can see is that the manufacturers of such low-quality materials have completely forgotten about what a sealant is. Despite the fact that the two parts of the module are fastened with screws, there is a gap between them, and this absolutely should not exist. In rainy weather, it is through this gap that moisture and debris will get inside, which instantly disables the diodes - they simply burn out.

The second thing that is poorly made in the Chinese daytime lights without a name is the board itself with LEDs. You can notice the following - the board is assembled by itself simple principle, low-quality LEDs are taken as a basis, that is, emitters and a simple current-limiting resistor.

It is worth noting that most LEDs in such products are of the super-bright type, and accordingly, they operate from direct current and a slight deviation from this norm leads to their rapid failure. Chinese manufacturers take 3 diodes connected in series and connect them to one resistor, which entails problems with the operation of the device.

To approach the issue of modification correctly and transform low-quality DRLs, you need to stock up on the following details:

Several 12V DC voltage stabilizers. You can take any stabilizer with these parameters - it will be ideal.
Electrolytic capacitor that will fit under the daytime running light housing.
High quality silicone sealant.
Electrical tape, a soldering iron and the entire accompanying kit, as well as patience, perseverance and attentiveness.

How to fix DRL defects?

To begin with, to stabilize further work The LED device needs to equalize the current. That is, it is necessary to resort to installing a special voltage stabilizer. If you have a voltage of 12V on the box with diodes, then you need to purchase a miniature stabilizer with the corresponding indicator. It is worth noting that in cars the voltage is not constant and even, and fluctuates from several units, which is typical during startup and can rise to 14V, which is typical when charging the battery. If you install a stabilizer, it will control the supply of only 12V current to the device. Also, it is very important to eliminate voltage fluctuations in order to bring the DRL operation to a stable mode. To eliminate this, experts recommend installing an electrolytic polar capacitor with a high-capacity characteristic. It must be installed to the common diode buses on the board itself, connecting it to the output of the stabilizer. It is worth noting that it is necessary to strictly adhere to polarity during installation.

Firstly, if you carry out the manipulations described above, the diodes will be ignited gradually and smoothly, which may not be noticed, but it is so. Secondly, thanks to the installation of a stabilizer, there is no reverse current flow, and the module is deactivated gradually, which can be seen with the naked eye. Such measures provide the LEDs with better operating conditions and also allow them to increase their service life several times, which is important for you as the buyer of this product. And the last thing to do in this case is to use silicone sealant. They need to process the edges of all parts of the case that are in contact with each other in order to remove gaps and prevent moisture and dust from getting inside the case.

If you are a careful driver and are concerned about the condition of your car, the durability of LED running lights, lamps, strips and other light sources, then you simply need this voltage stabilizer!

What is the use of it you ask?

Possibility of adjusting the output voltage in the range from 1.3 to 30 Volts;
Eliminates short voltage surges;
Extends the service life of LEDs several times;
Possibility of installing equipment designed to operate on a 12 Volt network on trucks;
Saves your money and time.

Every driver knows that the voltage in a car's network ranges from 12.2 to 14.4 Volts. This has a detrimental effect on the operation of LEDs, which require a constant voltage value. Adjustable stabilizer widely used in lighting tuning using tapes or slats, because they are defenseless against power surges.

Peculiarities:

Power supply from 12 or 24 Volts;
Reliable board and modern chip;
Convenient output voltage regulator;
One of the most compact in its class;
Works only to reduce voltage;
Affordable price.

Characteristics:

Model: LM2596
Current - constant
Input voltage: 3-40 Volts
Maximum current: 3 Amps
Conversion efficiency: 93%
Output Ripple:< 30мВ
Switching frequency: 65 kHz
Operating temperature: -45 to + 85
Size: 43 x 21 x 14 mm
Warranty: 6 months

Equipment:

1 x Adjustable Voltage Stabilizer

Connection:

2 contacts labeled IN+ and IN- are connected to the power source by soldering the positive and negative wires, respectively. A consumer (DRL, strip, LED module, etc.) is connected to two contacts on the opposite edge - the positive wire is to the OUT+ mark, the negative wire is to the OUT- mark. To calibrate the stabilizer, place a multimeter at the output and set the desired value by rotating the adjusting screw.

By purchasing a stabilizer for diode lamps, you will be confident in the durability of your lighting!

If you only need 12 Volts at the output, then you can buy a 12 Volt voltage stabilizer for LEDs in cars

It is very easy to purchase an adjustable voltage stabilizer 12/24V 3A in the Electro-kot online store - just click on the add to cart button, fill out the required fields and select a convenient delivery method.